Botswana

March 2004

We stayed at permanent tented camps throughout Botswana, which we reached by small plane or helicopter.  These camps are very isolated, small (8-10 tents), and quite luxurious.  Each of the camps has its own distinctive style that meshes with the local landscape.  The camps were not fully occupied and we usually had our own guide and vehicle. (more details about the trip below)


At Mombo camp we encountered amazing game viewing...

With only disposable cameras at hand (our camera was lost on horseback) we were fortunate the animals were close since no zoom was available!

An inquisitive baby leopard approached our vehicle.

The rare white rhinos.

We saw thousands of migrating zebra at Jack's camp, and hundreds of grazing zebra at Mombo. (Julie was thrilled!)

Julie & a vervet monkey.

We saw 25 (different) lions in one afternoon!

At Macatoo camp we did a horseback safari...

The floods had just arrived, presenting fun, wet riding.

We enjoyed splashing in the water!

At the River Club on the Zambezi River (Zambia)

At Victoria Falls

From the Victoria Falls Hotel (Zimbabwe)

Dan went first on the microlight flight over the falls...

and then did aerial game viewing in the adjacent park.

Julie's microlight experience.

Julie disembarks triumphantly.

Territorial baboon at Cape of Good Hope (South Africa)

Ostriches foraging on the side of the road.

Cape Town (or "jackass") penguins

From Table Mountain above Cape Town.

At Robben Island (former prison for political inmates)

In the Kalahari desert we stayed at Jack's camp (which maintains the ambience of a classic 1940's-style safari), where we saw thousands of migrating zebras and hundreds of wildebeest.  The landscape consists of shallow salt "pans" that fill with water in the wet season.  We arrived following a day of torrential rain in the region, and the pans water were attracting wildlife.  We also mingled amongst meerkats and brown hyena.  We were fortunate to have a rare encounter with an aardvark very early in the morning.  We took a walk with Kalahari bushmen who told us about their hunting methods and lifestyle, and taught us some words in their language.  Stone Age humans had occupied the area for many years.  Wading in the salt pans we found numerous human-crafted tools from 30,000-1000,000 years ago - which we left there for future archaeologists to discover. 

At Macatoo camp in the Okavango Delta we rode horses (instead of vehicles).  The flood waters had just descended from Angola and so we did a lot of galloping in and fording through the flooded areas between islands.  We rode with giraffe, and saw many exquisite birds enjoying the freshly-arrived water.  Unfortunately, the activity was so vigorous that our digital camera managed to escape from the saddlebag.  The camera was lost, unless of course it surfaces during the dry season and the hyenas haven't eaten it!  (We managed to subsist on disposable cameras after that.)  We were delighted to learn that baboons dwelled in the trees above our tent.  We were less delighted when they threw things down at our tent and communicated noisily in the middle of the night! 

Mombo camp in the Okavango Delta has an exquisite menagerie of animals in the vicinity.  We encountered all the big five in pretty rapid succession, plus rare odd finds like bat-eared foxes.  Julie developed a personal fondness for warthogs.  We were charmed by a baby leopard who pounced from a tree and strode alongside our vehicle.  Buffalo kept vigil under our tent every night.

At King's Pool camp on the Linyanti River, the tents were the largest and most luxurious and we watched hippos (both in the river and in our camp).  We also had a nighttime viewing of bushbabies (the smallest primates).

The River Club on the Zambian side of the Zambezi was beautiful - with colonial architecture infused with quirky elements.  Rides on the owner's boat are an enjoyable way to watch the African sunset.  Massages, swimming, and croquet are other fun activities there.  We took microlight flights over Victoria Falls, and the adjacent game park!  It was a very intense experience.

In Cape Town we stayed at Kensington Place (in a room with its' own fish pond) and explored Table Mountain and the Cape of Good Hope.  We also visited adjacent Robben Island where former political prisoners lead the tours of the maximum security prison.  (Nelson Mandela was imprisoned there.) 

**Special thanks to Pete and Francis (our guides at Jack's and Mombo, respectively), and Sarah-Jane and Peter (owners of Macatoo and River Club, respectively) for so graciously sharing their worlds with us.