October 2005
(map) We explored Rajasthan, Agra, and the foothills of the Himalayas.
We began in the vicinity of Udaipur (Rajasthan) visiting small villages and temples and exploring the palaces around Lake Pichola. Monsoon rains were phenomenal this year, and the Rajasthan watering holes were full - a welcome contrast to the dry, rugged, cactus-dotted Aravalli hills. We stayed in a hill fort palace in the village of Delwara that was built in the 1760's and recently renovated into a small hotel called Devi Garh.
In the Himalayas we did some hiking and rafting on the Ganges (class 2 & 3). We were high in the foothills above Rishikesh staying for several days at Ananda, a modern spa. Our yoga teacher from California was leading a retreat at the Parmarth Niketan ashram at the same time, so we participated in events there, including the aarti ceremony on the banks of the Ganges. Dan installed wireless at the ashram and helped them on other computer and communications support.
From there, we went to Agra and saw the Red Fort and Taj Mahal and Fatehpur Sikri, a spectacular Moghul fort complex. Outside Alwar, we stayed adjacent to rural villages and explored Ajabgarh fort ruins and Bhangarh (an abandoned city built in 1631 that is currently being excavated) and did yoga on temple ruins. We also had a lovely early evening on the ruins of a palace overlooking the local lake which had been lit up by a profusion of candles at the site and on the surrounding hill-top fortress ruins. We had delicious Indian appetizers prepared right on the terrace for us.
We ended our trip in the Ranthambhore tiger park where we stayed in bush tents. A highlight was a camel safari through the countryside with the two of us at the reins of our camels. We were able to bend the camels to our will and experienced the fully range of camel paces as we covered dusty ground swftly.
Places to stay: Parmarth Niketan (ashram) in Rishikesh, Amarvillas (next to the Taj Mahal) in Agra, The Manor in Delhi, Amanbagh (fantastic pool pavilions), Aman-i-Khas in Ranthambhore. (Special thanks to Sally & Phillip at Amanbagh for a truly peaceful and memorable stay.)