October 2005
(map) We stayed on the coast in an old fort town and at a beach-front retreat.
In Singapore we stayed over at The Scarlet, a new small hotel in Chinatown. After sightseeing, we met lj's parents and friend for dinner (delicious pepper crabs!)
Then we went to Amangalla in Sri Lanka, located in the former New Oriental Hotel in the 17th cent. Dutch fort town of Galle on the southern coast. We saw some old temples and went out looking for water monitors on a catamaran in a lake. We also saw a cinnamon harvest and went to Uda Walawe in the interior of the island to see game animals. All along we encountered tsunami damage and victims and lots of survival stories. In Galle, water overran much of the city, but the fort walls of the old city protected much of that space from extensive flooding. Nonetheless, 500 fort residents sought shelter at the hotel Amangalla because it occupied the highest ground of the fort. For three days the hotel, which had been open for only 2 weeks, provided food and shelter for the villagers.
On the ground, there were huge differences in destruction depending on the beach elevation and the depth offshore. Villages a kilometre apart often appeared to have been affected in very divergent ways. In Peraliya, the damage included a derailed train where thousands of people lost their lives that was left on the old tracks next to the newly build railway. But other nearby villages suffered much less damage. Perhaps this is why so much of the infrastructure has been rebuilt so quickly. What remains are many temporary houses as the government sorts out regulations on the setback of new houses from the beach.
We finished our trip on the beach at Amanwella near Tangalle where we snorkelled on the reef and swam in the surf.